Caring for Dark-Dyed Hair in the Shower
Avoid shampooing for 72 hours. One of the first and biggest mistakes you can make when it comes to dyed hair is to wash it too soon after dyeing. The dyeing process opens the cuticle layer of hair, which is where the dye actually resides in strands of hair.[1] One of the first steps to preserving color entails giving the cuticle layers of hair enough time to close completely before washing the hair. To do this, you should wait 72 hours after dyeing your hair before ever washing it.[2] As many people already know, the dye will seep out naturally to some degree as the cuticle layers of the hair close. You should wear dark clothing and use dark pillow cases during this period to avoid staining them
Wash your hair less frequently. Even after the cuticle layer of hair closes, shampooing causes hair to swell and allows the color to escape.[3] By simply washing your hair less often, you can help preserve the color.[4] If you have an oily hair type and would really hate washing less often, take advantage of color-safe dry shampoo.[5] This will allow you to clean your hair minus the water and suds.
Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners. When you do actually wash your hair in the shower, use a shampoo specifically formulated to preserve dyed hair. Most companies now offer lines of color-protecting shampoos and conditioners. These products actually help seal your hair cuticles, which help to lock dye inside hair strands.[6] In addition to using color-protecting products, you should also completely avoid clarifying shampoos because they can strip hair strands and speed up the fading process.[7] Some stylists may recommend a clarifying shampoo the day before a color refresh, however, specifically because they help strip the old dye and ready the hair for the fresh dye.[8] You can also look into products such as Aveda Clove Color Conditioner. This and similar products contain trace amounts of dye and deposit it on your hair when used, essentially providing a micro-recoloring each time you use them.[9] Just make sure to find the product appropriate to the color of your hair.
Avoid rinsing with hot water. Just like hot water opens pores, it also opens the cuticle layers of hair, allowing dye to escape. It may not sound like a very fun proposition, but using cold or ever lukewarm water to wet and rinse your hair will help preserve the dye.[10] In addition to avoiding hot water, you should avoid excessive rinsing in general. Once you have completely rinsed shampoo and conditioner out of your hair, don’t simply tilt your head back and allow water to continue running through your hair because this can slowly strip dye as well.[11]
Blot hair to dry. As many people may have already noticed, towel drying dyed hair is an easy way to ruin a towel. Roughly towel drying your hair scrapes even more dye out of the cuticle layer of hair that is already open from the shower water swelling hair strands. By gently blotting hair and allowing it to air dry as much as possible, you will strip less dye.[12]
Consider installing a water purification system. Most of us live in locations that have mineral-heavy hard water. If you dye your hair often and can justify the purchase, consider installing a water purification system for the shower. This will eliminate minerals and trace amounts of chlorine from treated water, both of which can strip hair dye.[13]
Caring for Dark-Dyed Hair out of the Shower
Avoid overusing curling irons, flat irons, and blowdryers. Colored hair is often more brittle, making it more vulnerable to heat. Try to avoid overusing curling irons, flat irons, and blowdryers when styling your hair to keep the hair healthy and stop fading.[14] If your style really requires the use of these items, then make sure you apply a heat-protectant spray first.[15]
Use color-safe hair products. Many of the common ingredients in hair products can dry, bleach, or strip hair dye. Look for specifically color-safe hair products while especially avoiding products with alcohol, peroxide, or ammonia.[16] In addition to color-safe products, you should use products for your particular hair type—fine, thick, oily, dry, etc.—since these will promote healthier hair and counteract the drying and brittleness that dyeing hair can lead to in general.[17]
Use a hair mask once a week. Keeping in moisture and preventing over-drying of colored hair is important to keeping the hair healthy. By using a hair mask once a week, you can help protect dark-dyed hair. Make sure the product you use is paraben free with aloe, and leave the hair mask on for a full hour with a shower cap over it to help it most effectively penetrate your hair.[18] If you prefer hot oil treatments to hair masks, you can substitute these instead, but avoid using both unless you have extremely dry hair since both can leave your hair looking greasy.
Avoid too much sun. UV rays are some of the biggest enemies of hair dye. While you no doubt want to show off your lustrous locks in the sunshine, you should still try to minimize sun exposure.[19] Use this as an excuse to show off some of your best sun hats.
Use leave-in treatments with UV absorbers. Obviously, no one wants to permanently avoid sunshine. Though less effective than a hat or simply avoiding UV rays, you can use a leave-in hair treatment with UV absorbers to help filter the UV rays.[20] For effective UV absorbers, look for products with benzophenone-3 or -4, polyquaternium-59, cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride, or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.[21]
Stay away from chlorine. Especially during the summer, the draw of pools and hot tubs can prove too strong even though you know the chlorine is terrible for dyed hair. In these instances, rinse your hair with fresh water before going swimming. By wetting the hair with regular water first, you will limit the chlorine absorption in the pool.[22] Rinsing chlorinated water out of your hair as soon as you get out of the pool or spa will help as well, but you’re still better off avoiding chlorinated water completely when you can.
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